Uncle Johnny, who runs the hostel, gives me a shuttle this morning up to the trail. It's 19 miles from that point back to Erwin, so I'm going to slackpack it. That means I leave my pack at Johnny's , and carry only a daypack (he has a loaner). With my load reduced from 40 pounds to about 5, I make 19 miles, my longest day so far.
Highlight of the day was walking through a USFS controlled burn--smoke everywhere, and fire right alongside the trail as they burned off the dead leaves.
Monday, May 12, 2008
April 23, 2008
Well, today was interesting. I got lost. Several places along the trail today, it ran along old logging roads, and on one of them, I didn't notice when the AT turned off. By the time I noticed, I reckoned I'd gone over a mile steeply downhill. Rather than fight uphill, I decided to explore a little and make for a road on my map, then hitch back up the mountain. I make the road, but getting the hitch wasn't easy. After an hour, a pickup pulls up and offers a lift the other way--into Erwin, Tenn. I take it and within an hour I'm in a hostel.
April 22, 2008
Feeling much better thanks to the food last night, which is good since today's 12 miles included a few tough uphills and more than a few rock scrambles--places where you're using both hands to climb over boulders and rock ledges. It's worth it, though, as we get several terrific views from the ridgeline. We're on the western edge of the Applachian chain now, and when you look west, from up on top of a mountain, you can see the flatlands.
April 22, 2008
Still feeling sick all day, very weak and feverish. Two highlights to the day.
The first is running into Guns. Guns is a former Army sergeant that I hadn't seen in over two weeks. He's a character. Whenever someone mentions bear problems, his solution is always to suggest the bear be shot. He's prone to saying things like "I have 10,000 rounds of ammmunition and a six-man cell." Mention to him that you've only ever fired a shotgun and a .22, and he'll tell you that a .22 is a good gun for killing guard dogs. Still, he good company.
The other good thing was some serious Trail Magic. Around 6:15, Guns and I reach Allen Gap, where there is a road crossing. A sign there promised us food if we'd go to a certain house about 400 yards off the trail. If we could make it by 6:30.
We made it, and met Hercules and Fal '99 thru-hikers who have retired near the trail and provide magic to everyone who stops by--waffles, stew, dessert and lots of lemonade. I really needed that meal. After the meal, we find out why they do it when they asked us what we think about life after death. They're Christians and this is their ministry.
Over the next few days, I hear a lot of opinions about Hercules and Fal. Everyone agrees the food was awesome and they were nice people--the debate is whether or not people felt ambushed. More than a few do. I guess I did, a little, but it didn't really bother me much, as I was so glad for the food. Which pretty much the way I feel about the whole thing: they could just put on the sign that a religious discussion would follow the free meal, and I'd bet 90% of the hikers would still stop.
The first is running into Guns. Guns is a former Army sergeant that I hadn't seen in over two weeks. He's a character. Whenever someone mentions bear problems, his solution is always to suggest the bear be shot. He's prone to saying things like "I have 10,000 rounds of ammmunition and a six-man cell." Mention to him that you've only ever fired a shotgun and a .22, and he'll tell you that a .22 is a good gun for killing guard dogs. Still, he good company.
The other good thing was some serious Trail Magic. Around 6:15, Guns and I reach Allen Gap, where there is a road crossing. A sign there promised us food if we'd go to a certain house about 400 yards off the trail. If we could make it by 6:30.
We made it, and met Hercules and Fal '99 thru-hikers who have retired near the trail and provide magic to everyone who stops by--waffles, stew, dessert and lots of lemonade. I really needed that meal. After the meal, we find out why they do it when they asked us what we think about life after death. They're Christians and this is their ministry.
Over the next few days, I hear a lot of opinions about Hercules and Fal. Everyone agrees the food was awesome and they were nice people--the debate is whether or not people felt ambushed. More than a few do. I guess I did, a little, but it didn't really bother me much, as I was so glad for the food. Which pretty much the way I feel about the whole thing: they could just put on the sign that a religious discussion would follow the free meal, and I'd bet 90% of the hikers would still stop.
April 21, 2008
Ugly, ugly day. I mentioned that the food at Elmer's is vegetarian; it's also organic, whole-grain, healthy stuff, which had me up in the bathroom half the night. I sleep late, trying to catch up, but I'm still feeling weak and ill all day. Running a fever, I think. Only make seven miles before making camp early.
Saturday, May 10, 2008
April 20, 2008
I'm sort of going to be stuck with taking a zero in Hot Springs. This isn't the worst thing in the world, but its not choice number one. I'm taking it because it's raining pretty good, and I left my rain gear back at Standing Bear Farm. I don't want to buy anything, as I'll be going to my folks' next week and I have some spare gear there.
April 19, 2008
Town day in Hot Springs, NC. Hot Springs is one of the true trail towns in that the AT goes directly through downtown (all six blocks of it). There's everything you could want in a town-a good outfitter, a few stores, a diner, a pub, a post office, a couple of hostels and natural hot mineral baths.
After picking up my mail and catching up with some familiar faces, I checked in to Elmer's Sunnyback Inn. This is a hostel, located in a 160-year-old house, that's a trail institution. Guests are expected to eat at least one meal at the hostel--vegetarian food, served family-style. The kitchen door is covered with stickers and signs promoting an array of progressive causes--impeach Bush, elect Obama, save the environment, fight Wal-Mart, eat organic. (My favorite bumper sticker--"Compost:because a rind is a terrible thing to waste.") It's an interesting thing about the AT that there is room within the "community" both for this place and for someone like Ron Haven back at Franklin, a pickup-driving, NRA-member, good ol' boy (I'm guessing Ron would have no problem self-identifying as a redneck.)
After checking in, showering and doing laundry, I hook up with Mustang Sally and we decide to check out the springs that give the town its name. Sally is a fifty-something ex-Army nurse with a shaved head. I'm guessing the shaved head is a trail thing (there are a couple other shaved women out here) but maybe not. After the AT, she's pursuing a third or fourth career and taking up truck driving. For $12, we get to soak in a tub of warm mineral water. It's terrific!
After picking up my mail and catching up with some familiar faces, I checked in to Elmer's Sunnyback Inn. This is a hostel, located in a 160-year-old house, that's a trail institution. Guests are expected to eat at least one meal at the hostel--vegetarian food, served family-style. The kitchen door is covered with stickers and signs promoting an array of progressive causes--impeach Bush, elect Obama, save the environment, fight Wal-Mart, eat organic. (My favorite bumper sticker--"Compost:because a rind is a terrible thing to waste.") It's an interesting thing about the AT that there is room within the "community" both for this place and for someone like Ron Haven back at Franklin, a pickup-driving, NRA-member, good ol' boy (I'm guessing Ron would have no problem self-identifying as a redneck.)
After checking in, showering and doing laundry, I hook up with Mustang Sally and we decide to check out the springs that give the town its name. Sally is a fifty-something ex-Army nurse with a shaved head. I'm guessing the shaved head is a trail thing (there are a couple other shaved women out here) but maybe not. After the AT, she's pursuing a third or fourth career and taking up truck driving. For $12, we get to soak in a tub of warm mineral water. It's terrific!
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