Apparently the missing entries made it, so I adjusted the posts to have some sort of chronological order. Sorry if there's any confusion. Happy reading!

April 11, 2008

Well, that was a crappy day. I decided to zero here in Gatlinburg instead of, as planned, in Davenport Gap, in order to rest the ankle. I had a nice breakfast and found another hiker to share a room with for the night, and then I made the mistake of asking the motel manager if there was a Wal-Mart nearby. He told me it took two trolleys to get to Pigeon Forge.

He did not tell me that, 1. the Pigeon Forge trolley system is run by idiots 2. there was a parade today. Seven hours and nine trolley rides later, I made it back to my hotel room.

Get me back to the trail.


April 12, 2008

The National Park's restrictions on campsites sort of stuck me with a nearo (near-zero). Kind of my fault, too, since I was, as I always am, late leaving town. I was able to mooch a ride up to Newfound Gap by hanging around outside the local outfitter's. I got picked up by an '03 thru-hiker who was on his way to NC. In addition to giving me a lift, his good deed of the day was leaving a case of coke and a box of brownies on the AT as Trail Magic.

Unfortunately, I didn't make it up to the trail until 1pm, and from there my choices were a shelter at 3 miles, and another at 10. Since I wasn't making 10 miles before dark, 3 was it.

Since I have some time to kill here, I should mention a couple wildlife encounters in the Smokies that I think I haven't mentioned. We had coyotes howling nearby one night (maybe a half-mile); I had a hawk fly maybe 5 feet over my head; and I'm pretty sure I heard (but did not see) a bear near me. Something large in the underbrush, in any event.

I've loved the Smokies, but word is I'm about to see their not-s0-nice side: Forecast calls for subfreezing temps tonight, and possible snow.

April 13, 2008

Very, very cold this AM - probably 25 or so. Little bit of freezing rain last night left a pile of white on the tarp over my hammock.

Early this morning came to Charlie's Bunion, undoubtedly the most spectacular spot I've been to on the AT so far, if not necessarily my favorite. It's a knob of rock sticking out into a deep valley, with more-or-less sheer cliffs on all sides. I don't think the photos will do it justice, especially since it was overcast.

Sun came out a bit int he afternoon, but for the most part it was flurries all day. Walked 12.5 miles to TriCorner Knob Shelter. Unfortunately, the shelter isn't full, so SMNP rules require me to sleep in the shelter - I actually think I'd be warmer hanging in my hammock, and it's supposed to drop into the teens tonight.

Several people that camped here last night are backtracking 3 miles and going back into Gatlingburg for a couple nights to get out of the cold. I'm tempted to join them.


April 14, 2008

Terrific day. Very cold in the AM and I was a little slow leaving. It started snowing at 10 am and never stopped. By the time I reached the top of the Cammerer, the snow was about 4 inches deep, and it kept on coming. It was cold, and wet, but I was having a great time, feeling like I was 10 years old, playing with Russell Davis in the snow. The footing is tricky - the trail is mostly rocks, and with the snow covering them, it's hard to guess which way your foot is going to fall. But I make great time, and by 6 pm, I've made the 15 miles to Davenport Gap Shelter, and I decide to make the 3 more to Standing Bear Farm.

Now here is an example of Trail Magic. I think I've mentioned Cool Breeze before; he's a guy I've hiked with who fell behind me at Franklin, and who I've been expecting to catch me any day. I've left him messages in several Trail Registers (notebooks left in every shelter for people to leave notes in).

So as I'm walking across the Pigeon River bridge, about a mile away from the hostel, a white SUV pulls up alongside me. I'm hoping it's some stranger gonna offer me a ride... until the tinted window rolls down, and I see Cool Breeze behind the wheel. He's been knocked off the Trail for a few weeks by tendonitis, and it's keeping himself busy by driving around helping out other hikers. He picked me up - cold, wet, tired - and drove me the last mile to Standing Bear Farm.


April 15, 2008

Took a zero day at Standing Bear. This is a bad thing, since I just took one at Gatlingburg, and I shouldn't take two zeros so close together. On the other hand, it's my hike and I'll do what I want.

Actually, I was kind of stuck here in a way. Even after sitting in front of a fireplace all night, my boots were still very wet from walking through the snow all day yesterday, and I don't want to go out in wet boots. Not that I needed much convincing.

Standing Bear Farm is a hostel - an actual old family farm, with wood buildings dating, I guess 60+ years old. The bunkhouse is straight plank walls, heated by a Franklin stove. There's a full kitchen, and a creek running along next to a campfire circle.

There's also a "store" where you can resupply before the 2-3 day hike into Hot Springs. I put the word store in quotes, because of the way it, and the hostel itself works. It's really more of a pantry - a 20x20 room with a fridge, a freezer and several shelves and cabinets full of food and hiking gear. Everything is marked with a price, all pretty much what you'd pay in a convenience store. By the door as you walk out, there's a box of envelopes - payment for everything, including your lodging, is on the honor system.

You don't see that sort of thing too much anymore. But it works here. A lot of people would be confused by some of the juxtapositions the trail creates. To wit: last night, there were a half-dozen hikers passing a bong around the campfire. Dirty, pot-smoking criminals... who can obviously be trusted to pay their bills honestly. Of the three of the six I knew, I'd trust any of them to hold my wallet if the need arose.

To partially defray the expense of stying an extra night, I do some work-for-stay. Two hours of landscaping gets me a free night. If you ever come here, the rhododendron at the end of the driveway is mine.